La Ville aux Cent Clochers · Posted Mar 17, 10:58 AM by Todd Babiak
I just returned from Montreal, a city of ice. Last week, forty centimeters of snow fell on the island of opportunity. The sidewalks are just about impassible — especially in the suburb of Dollard des Ormeaux, where I undertook some research for the novel I’m writing. They use plenty of salt on the roads and sidewalks in Montreal, and I only brought leather oxfords. I fear they may be ruined. Oh well: all for the love of literature!
One of the things I miss most about Montreal are the superlative falafel pita sandwiches. The Lebanese of Montreal compete vigorously for title of the best falafel, best shish taouk, best schwarma. I’m a Sara man myself, but Amir has it going on, too.
I remember, ten years ago — I’m old — there was a huge battle at Concordia University’s ethnic fair when the Jewish students sold falafels and hummus at their booth, across from an Arab student organization also selling falafels and hummus. Nothing could be stupider, of course, for two Mediterranean peoples to argue over the rightful inventor of fried and mashed chickpeas. But there it was, a microcosm of every war in the history of humankind.
There was a parade down Saint Catherine on Saturday. It was an anti-war parade, linked to others across the country, protesting Canada’s extension of its mission in Afghanistan. There were a few people, at the front, broadly criticizing war. But in pure Montreal fashion, most of the parade was devoted to tirades against George Bush and Israel.
At least it was bilingual.
I lived in Montreal during the 1995 referendum, which was a bracing time in recent Canadian history. That anger in the air, which may have had as much to do with the ugly feedback mechanisms of a failing economy than language and culture, is completely absent now. Everyone, it seems, speaks both English and French merrily. Perhaps they’re realizing that learning another language well enough to order food, buy clothes, protest an outlandish Hydro bill, isn’t even all that hard. It’s courteous and fulfilling to learn your neighbour’s language.
Most of my friends from my Montreal days are anglos. They all speak French, but when we’re together we speak English. It has always shamed me, a bit, to speak English in Montreal — especially on the east side of Saint Laurent. I switch with vigor to French, when the server comes to the table, for instance. If he or she, overhearing us, switches to English, I persevere — to the great delight of my friends — until a calming aura of Frenchness returns to the proceedings. And if a Quebecois claims his people invented steak, or failing black leather oxfords, or sex, I give him that.
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Next time you’re in town you should send me an email or something! I’m an Anglo! I speak French! I am living the Montreal dream! I even landed a fulltime job in communications here. As I promised before, if you hold a book launch, I guarantee 10 of my friends will show up!
It must be quite something to compare Montreal today to what it was in 1995. I, sadly, cannot make such a comparison. All I know is, j’aime Montreal! Notwithstanding the gargantuan snowbanks!
— Laurence Miall Mar 17, 12:18 PM #
Tres bien, Todd – a lovely ode to a lovely city. Makes me achingly nostalgic for Montreal.
I also lived there in the early 90s. I remember the tension you refer to…the number 101 carved over English text in our building elevator. The acrimony floating over the massive “Non” rally in October 95.
I am truly delighted to hear that it’s a thing of the past. Now please, quit writing stuff like this…you’re making Edmonton feel so prosaic!
— Rob D Mar 17, 02:45 PM #
It is one thing to breeze through Montreal momentarily and declare that the anger in the air circa 1995 is now completely gone…. and live here every day for the past three and a half years and observe the anger still very much alive. Muted, perhaps – not quite as vicious as a decade ago, but people here are still hating each other very much.
I have been told to go back to Canada, as I committed the grievous sin of speaking English on the bus (East of St. Laurent!) – with my anglo, though bilingual, friend. My boyfriend’s accent has been openly mocked – all those years of French immersion in Edmonton, including attending Faculté St. Jean, still are not recognized as legit – and as no one immediately recognizes the name “Grant MacEwan”, his technical training is viewed as “not quite good enough” either (he is now working on documentaries with an anglo production team). My friend’s francophone roommate with the Irish surname is completely paranoid that her CV is being overlooked because of her last name – and it probably is.
The language issue is still a problem. It’s just festering quietly instead of raging in the streets.
— french panic Mar 17, 04:41 PM #
I agree that it is courteous to learn the language of your neighbours. That is just common sense.
I did come to this city with adequate French (but an very, very anglo name). All my french immersion was gonna pay off, at least that is what I thought.
Perhaps I was too naive.
I have only been employed by anglophones since arriving despite many interviews with francophone employers who complement me on my french, genuinely surprised that anyone can speak the language west of Hull. I’m not overly prone to conspiracy theories, but when I started hearing other people mention how their last names created anxiety in that eternal struggle for meaningful employment, I did get the sense that it wasn’t just bad luck.
Language issues are still very much alive and seem to be on the increase. There are some very angry pro-francophone folk that are not happy despite the vast numbers of bilingual anglos in Montréal. And it isn’t just anglos. There is a high degree of disdain from ‘proper’ quebecois for the french Haitian accent, along with the usual ignorant comments regarding muslims. Of course these sad, angry activists are a small group, but are able to garner the attention of the provincial government and seem to be on the cusp of effecting policy in a very frightening way. Would the BC legislature ever be able to pass a law requiring a grammar test of its citizens?
— Pamplemousse Mar 18, 09:33 AM #
I also wanted to add that I do like living in Montréal. Politics aside, this is a great city to live in.
— Pamplemousse Mar 18, 03:50 PM #
just saw you on the news, some tom clancy “stink eye” crap, anyway youre still handsome
— hurley hee boy Mar 22, 01:13 AM #
The Hurley Hee Boy! I remember you, from Saturday Night Live. Give the boy a chance.
Yeah, I didn’t know what I was talking about. I said stink eye? Man.
— Todd Babiak Mar 24, 07:11 AM #
αγαπη είναι kaKh00b2j2eVI
— μου αγαπη Apr 25, 05:41 AM #